Texture, Clarity and Dehaze in Lightroom + ACR explained. The Ultimate Comparision

Colin Smith

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When and where do I use Clarity, or Dehaze or texture in Lightroom and Camera RAW? Answered

Continuing on my deep dive series into the different settings in Lightroom and Adobe Camera RAW (The adjustments on both are identical). This time I break down Texture, Clarity and Dehaze. They aren’t the same. I’ll explain what each does, provide the best times to use each on your photos and then we will wrap up by applying all 3 to an image selectively using masks. For previous tutorials in this series, check out Contrast | Shadow/Highlight vs Black/White

Before we dive in, I want to quickly define 2 terms.

Contrast and Frequency in images

Let’s start with contrast. Contrast=The difference between the lightest and darkest pixels in an image.

On the left side of this photo, you will see the darkest and the lightest pixels.

Because there is a large distance between them (on the grayscale), this is known as high contrast.

Contrast diagram on a hiker by a jungle waterfall, linking the darkest and lightest points to a wide grayscale range

Look at the right side of the same photo. There aren’t any real blacks.

The difference between the darkest and lightest part is less. This makes a low contrast image.

Contrast diagram on the hazy waterfall, its darkest and lightest points close together on the grayscale

Here is an example of full contrast, blacks and whites exist in this image. It looks punchy.

Marina with fishing boats at sunset, a full-contrast photo with true blacks and whites

An example of a low contrast image. No true blacks or whites. The image appears softer. There isn’t any right and wrong here. Use what works best of each photo.

Hazy sunset over a pier and palm-lined beach, a low-contrast photo with no true blacks

Frequency. The details in an image

Max Wendt from Adobe said it the best I’ve heard it. High frequency is the details, mid frequency is the features, while low frequency are the areas.

Frequency explained on the waterfall photo: high frequency is details, mid is features, low is areas

All that means, areas of fine detail are known as high frequency and areas that have little detail are known as low frequency. Most images contain all the different frequencies.

Waterfall photo with high, mid and low frequency areas circled and labeled

Finding the Texture, Contrast and Dehaze sliders

Both Camera Raw in Photoshop and all the Lightrooms have these 3 sliders.

In LIghtroom Classic they are under the presence portion of the adjustments panel

Lightroom Classic Basic panel with the Presence section, Texture, Clarity and Dehaze, outlined

In Photoshop, choose filter>Camera RAW

You will find them under the Effects panel. When you are in masks in Lightroom and ACR, they are called Effects.

Effects panel with Texture, Clarity and Dehaze sliders outlined

Clarity

Time to demonstrate the 3 sliders and explain them.

CLARITY title over a dark SUV parked on a mountain road

I will use this chart on all 3 of the adjustments so you can see how it effects different parts of an image. This isn’r a standard chart, I made it myself for testing purposes.

This is the chart with no adjustments for your reference.

Test chart of gradients, color swatches, photos and patterns with Clarity at zero

When we increase the clarity, you will notice the image looks sharper and more punchy.

Clarity adjusts the contrast in the midtones of the image (Grays). It doesn’t really affect blacks ands whites as much as midtones. It also adjusts the colors and makes them appear muddy. It adds a grunge to the image at higher settings.

Because of this, it makes details pop.

The test chart with Clarity at +100, edges and detail looking punchier

How clarity works.

Clarity works in a similar way as unsharp mask in Photoshop.

Choose Filter>Sharpen>Unsharp mask

Pin-up model in red holding a vintage movie camera with Unsharp Mask open

When cranked up too high you can clearly see whats happening. It adds a halo around edges and details. This gives the appearance of sharpening.

Unsharp Mask at Amount 500% and Radius 8.9, adding halos around the model's face

Clarity is useful for bringing out details in an image.

Model Chrystal holding a sci-fi raygun with Clarity at zero in Lightroom

Here you can see the details on Chrystal’s shirt as well as the raygun. But be careful, this effect is not flattering on skin. We will address this at the end where we use a brush to apply clarity.

Chrystal with Clarity at +87, more detail in her shirt and raygun

When Clarity first came out, it was widely used as an cartoonish effect known as the Grunge look or the fake HDR look in an attempt to emulate the work of photographer Dave Hill. (Trend followers might not have been aware of Dave Hill by the time it became mainstream, poor Dave).

While it still has it’s place for certain effects (I have a client that loves it, and forces me to use it often under protest), I would suggest against overusing this look unless you are after this particular effect. (I show how to do it on the video at the top, but essentially you crank Clarity, highlights and shadows to the maximum setting).

Clarity at +100 with Highlights -100 and Shadows +100, labeled not a suggested edit, just demonstrating

Another place where Clarity is great is with landscape photos.

Grand Canyon rock formations in Lightroom with Clarity at zero

Clarity can really bring out details in things like rocks.

The Grand Canyon with Clarity raised to +58, the rocks showing more detail

Dehaze

DEHAZE title over a desert highway under a pink sky

Dehaze works mostly on Low frequency areas on an image. It was designed to cut through fog, smog and glare. Dehaze boosts low frequency contrast and saturates the colors.

Notice how it doesn’t really affect the light parts of the image when added. But it really boosts the contrast in the rest of the image. This works well for things like skies as well as cutting through glare. It’s like cleaning a dirty window.

Test chart with Dehaze at +100, the light areas barely changed

If used in the opposite direction, dehaze can be used to add fog.

Test chart with Dehaze at -53, everything washed out with haze

Dehaze works well on areas like the waterfall that is losing detail due to the mist.

Remember, the primary goal here isn’t to fix a photo, but to demonstrate what these tools do. (I say this because, someone will say “the waterfall looked better before” and they might be right according to their subjective tastes. while others will prefer the “after” effect. It doesn’t matter, the point is to observe what these tools do so you can use them on totally different images.. your images. I look forward to the day when I don’t have to preface these obvious things, but photographers…).

The hiker and jungle waterfall photo in Lightroom before Dehaze

Here you can see Dehaze affects the washed out area the most. While the whole image is affected, its not as much as the area of low contrast.

The jungle waterfall with Dehaze at +72, the washed-out area cleared

If we push the dehaze to the left, it will actually introduce haze.

The waterfall with Dehaze at -64, adding heavy fog

Dehaze on skies

I love to use dehaze on skies and clouds.

Desert highway under purple clouds in Lightroom before Dehaze

See how it pops the details on the clouds.

But be aware, dehaze also boosts saturation

The desert highway with Dehaze at +51, the clouds showing more detail

If we reduce saturation afterwards, we can enjoy the detail of Dehaze without over saturating the colors.

The desert sky with Dehaze +51 and Vibrance lowered to -36 to tame the saturation

Texture

TEXTURE title beside a close portrait of a woman with long dark hair

The newest of the three Presence sliders is Texture. This is actually my choice in most cases and has largely replaced clarity in my personal workflow.

Texture Increases medium frequency contrast and doesn’t affect color too much (because its higher frequency than sharpening, it doesn’t exaggerate noise as much,

See how the details are showing better, but the color isn’t affected.

Test chart with Texture at +97, fine detail sharper but color unaffected

Texture was originally created by Adobe as a way to soften skin without removing the fine details like pores.

Close-up portrait with Texture raised, showing more skin detail

A subtle amount of negative texture can quickly make skin look great without making it look fake. Go too far and it will become plastic looking.

The same portrait with Texture at -44, smoothing the skin without losing pores

Originally designed to reduce texture, Adobe wondered what would happen if they allowed it to increase texture. What they go was an excellent sharpening effect that pops the textures in images.

Here is an image with texture applied. It brings out the gravel and texture of the road.

Desert highway with Texture at +46, bringing out the gravel on the roadside

Texture works similar to sharpening, but sharpening is applied to finer details than texture.

Here the image has sharpening applied but no texture. See the finer details. This also enhances noise grain if any is present in the image.

Detail panel sharpening on the road photo, the gravel area outlined in red

The ideal mix is a bit of sharpening and a bit of texture.

The road with Texture +43 combined with a bit of sharpening

Applying Texture, Clarity and Dehaze locally with a Mask brush.

Now for the holy grail. This is how I like to use these 3 adjustments.

Here is the before image. Remember, the goal is to pop the details as a demonstration.

Hiker at the jungle waterfall in Lightroom before local adjustments

Lets create a mask brush

Click on the mask icon

Masking icon circled in the Lightroom toolbar

choose brush

Add New Mask panel with Brush highlighted

Apply the brush to the low contrast area.

Red mask overlay painted over the hazy waterfall area

Increase the Dehaze.

Waterfall area circled after raising Dehaze to 48 in the brush mask

Lower the saturation so we are affecting the details and not the color.

Brush mask with Saturation lowered to -18 to keep the color natural

Continue to paint on the areas of the image that you want to cut through haze.

The waterfall with more local Dehaze painted over the hazy areas

Add a second mask for Clarity.

Click> Create New Mask and choose brush

Create New Mask menu with Brush chosen for a second mask

Add some clarity.

Mask Effects with Clarity set to 54

Paint over the bamboo and the leaves on the left to pop the details. You cam also paint over some of the areas we app;ied dehaze and see how combining these reveals a lot of detail. (The video at the top of the page shows this very well).

The hiker, bamboo and leaves with local Clarity bringing out detail

Add a third brush.

Increase texture

Masks panel with clarity and dehaze masks and Texture being raised on a new brush

Paint over the ground and details in the leaves on the left. Even add a little texture to the model.

Texture is my go to tool for a lot of detail, but also combine it with sharpening.

The hiker and waterfall after local Texture on the ground and leaves

Here is the image before adjustments

Before: the hazy jungle waterfall photo with no adjustments

And here is is after only applying the 3 tools (and a lowering of saturation on the dehaze).

After: the jungle waterfall with local Texture, Clarity and Dehaze, clearer with more depth

This tutorial was to demonstrate Texture, Clarity and dehaze, You would use other tools on your image as well of course. “What about contrast?”  you may ask. That is covered in it’s own tutorial here. Contrast | and Shadow/Highlight vs Black/White

If you found this tutorial interesting, then maybe you are ready for my comprehensive course on Lightroom Classic or Camera Raw. I also recently released a tutorial on Masks in Lightroom and Camera RAW here.

See newest Lightroom content

Thanks for checking this out

Colin


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30 comments

  1. Bill Gardner

    Most informative! Thank you. I’ve been using Photoshop for decades and Lightroom since it was released. There is always something new to learn.

  2. Hello
    Great Information! My question is, if you get color outlines around things in your landscape image after applying the techniques you illustrated, how do you get rid of the color halos and lines? I do understand the cut-back saturation approach, but what if you like the image and changing settings changes your effect? Is there a more global way instead of your example of cutting back the saturation?
    Thank You,
    Marge

    1. Colin Smith Author

      Sometimes you get chromatic aberration, you can fix those under the lens and color fringe

  3. Chrsitopher

    Nice explanation of the use of the 3 sliders. Rarely do I go over 20 on any of the sliders. What I found interesting was the reduction of vibrance/saturation.

    1. Colin Smith Author

      I agree, you don’t want to get aggressive with those sliders

  4. Nic Rose

    Thanks Colin. Been following for years.Your knowledge and sense of humour add to these lessons.Thank you

  5. Dennis Zito

    Hi Colin,
    This is a fantastic tutorial. I finally get what these sliders do and for some reason using a mask to separate them never occurred to me. Your explanation of frequency was also very, very helpful!!! Please continue this tutorials. Love them!
    Dennis

  6. Rick Verbanec

    I get that texture, clarity, and dehaze are high, medium, and low frequency adjustments to image sharpness and/or contrast. Is it fair to say that the sharpening slider falls somewhere between texture and clarity, and that contrast falls somewhere between clarity and dehaze, or are they doing something different altogether?

    1. Colin Smith Author

      Texture falls between sharpening and clarity. Sharpening is high frequency and works on finer details than texture.
      Contrast is a combination of black and white. See my recent tutorial on contrast

  7. Lewis Thatcher

    Switching to camera raw and finding the effects panel doesn’t work in Photoshoot CS4 Extended.

    1. Colin Smith Author

      Only clarity is in CS4, the other 2 weren’t invented when out came out.

  8. Ken Stickrod

    Thanks Colin. Your explanation of clarity, texture & dehaze will add another dimension to my editing. I especially like the hints of adjusting saturation & vibrance. When I’ve used dehaze, I’ve never liked the darkness/color change. Now I can use it.

  9. How do I turn dry ground to wet ground so I can use a rain brush or filter in Photoshop

    1. Colin Smith Author

      Look at wet ground and what do you see? Usually darker, reflections and some highlights.

  10. Steve Miles

    Excellent summary. This question has been bugging me for some time! Thanks

  11. Wayne Dula

    Well explained, simple and concise. I especially appreciate how you used each tool in specific parts of the image. Enjoy all of your tutorials. Thanks so much

  12. B Rendar

    Like others I learned how frequency relates to the use of the 3 sliders. I have used them for the photo as a whole and in masks but now I better understand why I get the results I get and can be more focussed on where to use them. Thanks as always.

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