How to Use the Light Adjustment in Photoshop: In-Depth Guide

Colin Smith

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Recently Adobe updated Photoshop with some new features, (see my guide here). It’s time to go in-depth with the important features and the most important one to me is the Light Adjustment layer. 

A lot of the adjustments that we found in Camera Raw and Lightroom are making their way into Photoshop. This latest addition gives us the ability to adjust the luminance (Perceived brightness of light) with simple sliders. This tutorial shows you how to use them, not just move the sliders, but the actual order and why you should move each one. 

Where is the Light Adjustment Layer?

Create a new adjustment layer. 

New adjustment layer button outlined at the bottom of the Layers panel

Choose Light

Adjustment layer menu with Light outlined at the top

In the Properties, you will see the Light Adjustments 

Light adjustment properties with Exposure, Contrast, Highlights, Shadows, Whites and Blacks

Areas affected by the Light Adjustment Layer.

If they look familiar, that’s because they are the same as in Camera Raw (pictured.) Side note: if you are working on a RAW file, you should adjust it in ACR or Lightroom first, because you get more dynamic range, among other benefits of a Raw adjustment. 

Camera Raw Light panel outlined with the same six sliders

If we break up the histogram in ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) you can see where each of these sliders fits in the range. With the exception of Contrast, which we will get to.

Histogram divided into Blacks, Shadows, Exposure, Highlights and Whites regions

Reverting to the legacy controls

Back in Photoshop: If you prefer the old Brightness/Contrast adjustment layer, you can revert by clicking the menu at the upper-right. Choose legacy.

Light panel menu with Light version options Latest, Legacy pre-2026 and Legacy pre-2007

The old brightness Contrast comes back. 

I prefer all the control on the light panel vs simple Brightness. 

Legacy Light panel with only Brightness and Contrast sliders

Making adjustments with the Light Adjustment Layer.

Here is the light panel ready to go.

Rocky seacoast with crashing waves under a bright sky, with the Light panel and histogram

If you increase contrast, it brightens the brights and darkens the darks. It pushes the histogram out from the center and this gives the image more punch. We also lose visible detail in the dark and light parts of the photo.

Contrast increased, the histogram spreading out with arrows, the rocks darker

If we move the contrast to the left, it reduces the contrast. Now we see more visible details in the lights and darks, but the image looks soft and washed out.  You can see the arrows indicate it squeezes the histogram in. 

Contrast decreased, the histogram squeezing toward the middle

Increase visible detail.

Usually, I begin by lowering the contrast just a little. I use Sony cameras and I feel they add a little too much contrast (to make the images look punchy).

Lowering contrast by a small amount such as -5 is a good starting place. 

Then I use the Shadow and Highlights as recovery sliders, reducing each. 

Move highlights to the left to show detail in bright areas especially skies. 

Move Shadows to the right to show detail in the very dark areas, such as these rocks. 

Shadows at +63 revealing detail in the dark sea rocks

Now you can increase the whites and blacks to restore the contrast or punch.

Whites and Blacks adjusted to restore punch to the seascape

Advantages of Adjustment Layers – Double Processing

There’s a technique I call double processing, where I run the adjustments through Camera RAW twice to increase the effect. With Adjustment layers, we don’t have to do this. If the highlight slider is all the way to the left and I still want more, I can duplicate the layer and get double the effect. 

Press Cmd/Ctrl+J to duplicate the layer.

Light adjustment layer duplicated to strengthen the effect on the rocks

You can fine-tune the amount by lowing the opacity on the 2nd layer. Alternatively, you can use a layer mask to control exactly where you want the boost. You can see the steps in action on the video at the top of the page. But essentially:

Choose a black brush and click the layer mask (the white rectangle to the right of the adjustment in the layers panel).

Paint with black on the image where you want to remove the effect of the adjustment layer. 

Painting black on the copy's mask to remove the adjustment from parts of the seascape

The display “glitch”.

When you are using the light adjustment layer and you either paint or use an adjustment layer under the Light layer, the effect of the Light adjustment disappears while you are working. As soon as you release your mouse, the effect comes back. 

Levels layer below the Light layers showing the mask transparency issue

This only happens if you have changed the Shadow or the Highlights sliders in the Light layer. Adobe intentionally made it work this way for the sake of performance. Let’s hope they find a better work-around in the future. 

Label reading It only hides if there is a shadow or highlight adjustment

And there you have the Light Adjustment layers. Let me know in the comments if this was useful for you and let me know if you have any questions, I read all the comments. 

Great to see you here at the CAFE

Colin


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2 comments

  1. Nils Elsner

    As far as I know, It is only if you use Clarity and Dehaze or Higligth and shadows that the Ligth adjustment pauses

    1. Colin Smith Author

      Only Shadow and Highlight pause it. Clarity and Dehaze aren’t part of the Light adjustment, but it already says that in the tutorial.

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