How do i make my photos like this?

[boooooozqwe]

Im curious to know if the way this photographer makes his photos look is just the camera or he he does things to him, like HDR. Id also like to know if anyone can tell me how to do make my photos look like his
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h112/boozoniz13cool/greathouse.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h112/boozoniz13cool/greathous.jpg
oh and the photographer is Seu Trinh in case anyone is wondering

[RickP]

boooooozqwe

What specifically are you refering too? The lens effects or the color and contrast of the photo?

Rick

[boooooozqwe]

the coloring

[gxpert]

hey dats a photoshop effect

[skeptic]

Well, these are shot with a fisheye lens which is what is distorting the edges. They are also shot with a flash which is brightening the skaters and darkening the sky. You could do some of this in post as well. If you shoot in RAW you should download the Lightroom trial and give it a whirl, it's awesome.

[zoedai]

Maybe, you shold try this Nikon D300 digital camera (http://www.digitalrev.com/en/product_details.php?item_id=2146).



Originally posted by boooooozqwe
Im curious to know if the way this photographer makes his photos look is just the camera or he he does things to him, like HDR. Id also like to know if anyone can tell me how to do make my photos look like his
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h112/boozoniz13cool/greathouse.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h112/boozoniz13cool/greathous.jpg
oh and the photographer is Seu Trinh in case anyone is wondering





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http://www.businesscentre-hk.com/gosimishufu.html (http://www.businesscentre-hk.com/gosimishufu.html)

[Edited on 1/30/2008 by zoedai]

[waterspirit]

Not looking at the lens effects, high pass sharpening and/or unsharp mask and even slight HDR usually give me similar effects.
Here's a link that can give you some starting points when using the high pass filter for sharpening and contrast: http://www.enigma-photos.com/LucisArtTutorial/

[mixedupmacandpc]

Well i doubt it's HDR, as u need multiple exposures and that would be tough to stop the action like that! here is a nice FAQ on HDR that explains the concept in numbers:
http://www.hdrsoft.com/resources/dri.html

[chucky]

Originally posted by boooooozqwe
Im curious to know if the way this photographer makes his photos look is just the camera or he he does things to him, like HDR. Id also like to know if anyone can tell me how to do make my photos look like his
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h112/boozoniz13cool/greathouse.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h112/boozoniz13cool/greathous.jpg
oh and the photographer is Seu Trinh in case anyone is wondering

[chucky]

Here ya go!! to get this effect or very simular this info should get you on the path.. camera is a hasselblad with fisheye Lens " Faster sync speeds large image area distinct contrast do to lens greatly improves image quality .. , Fisheye lens is a must for skate photography, Used low to ground shooting up distorts image to exaggerate trick and will include a lot of back ground which creates a since of place.., Slide film is used most likely 100 iso shot @ 200 Multiple flashes are used connected to wireless sync , with the multiple flashes youll get good for ground and side lighting "ie" studio effect , slide film has such a low error for exposure even -1/3 under exposure can darken image quite a bite ...
"ie" So if youre flash exposure was 5.6 and ambient was 1/2 stop under close to f8 you should end up getting a darker sky with proper exposure on subject
try shootong in late afternoon evening to inhace effect... oh yeah a good scanner Pictures youve shown are drum scanned
hope this makes sense and helps ..........
http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/68/168/2/62/90/2068262900102596029gNxobp_th.jpg (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2068262900102596029gNxobp)

[dogtrombone]

I think Chucky is about right with that. The square crops tend to imply that they're shot on medium format (Hasselblad, Mamiya or Bronica), and that saturation tends to inply film rather than digital imo.

There was a fashion photographer in the 80's, Guy Boudin, who would shoot outdoors, and underexpose the sky and background by around 2 to 3 stops, while flashing and reflector boarding the models... even more dramatic than these here... and also obviously using transparency film (probably 50 ASA).

So Booooooozy, scrape together a couple thousand buck of Hasselblad and lenses, and you're on your way!

[fotodog]

After looking at some of his portfolios on the web, I find it hard to believe he'd be shooting skaters with a Hassy. Just very impractical.

While I love shooting skaters I find that using digital or 35mm to be be more photo friendly because of the rapid fire you can do and portability. especially if you're shooting on location.

It could be done with off camera strobes, in fact I'd almost bet on it. If he's shooting at early morning or presunset he'd get this level of saturation especially with the right glass.

He's got the right handle on exposure and post processing. With Raw and lightroom it's amazing the level of vibrance and saturation you can get into this.

My guess is that he's shooting a high-end digital SLR (Nikon 300 or D3 or Canon equivilent) to maximize his shooting potential.

[kiwicolin]

Nothing HDR here. They just increased the contrast a bit. Maybe a little boost in the blues. Very easy to do in Camera Raw / Lightroom
Use a polarizing filter to make the sky blue when you capture the photo

[Urban GrafixÆ]

Just like Colin said, nothing HDR here!
Fotodog hit it on the nose when he mentioned off camera strobes... maybe 2-3 strobes on location to light-up the area(s) and get a great bright shot!
Shooting RAW is the trick when your shooting SLR, then bringing it in Lightroom and adjusting the exposure and then post processing to bring out the details of the lighting, contrast and vibrancy.

If your gonna try doing this from a standard point n shoot camera try downloading the Dynamic Photo HDR software.
By opening up your JPegs in this software you can come close to achieving this look. Otherwise Lightroom would be a great candidate also!

BTW, keep to mind that when you want to create a image like so alot of time is involved!
I see some dodging and burning in this photo also.

[Edited on 2/18/2009 by Urban GrafixÆ]

[Thann]

No need to overthink it. Skeptic and Chucky had the right answer. Fisheye with strobes. The darkening of the sky is achieved by "Dropping the Ambient". Its one of the reasons you would use a flash on a sunny day. It works like this. Your flash or strobe is not affected by the shutter speed of the camera, in that it fires incredibly fast (This assumes that you are shooting at or under the camera's flash synch speed) The amount of light that enters the camera from the flash is controlled by the aperture. Assuming the flash is correctly exposed at f8, your subject will be correctly exposed, whether your shutter speed is at 1/60th or 1/250th, but your background, the area not lit by you flash will look very different.
Take the flash out of the equation. Lets say we are shooting outside and and your exposure is correct at f8 @ 1/60. We then add the flash powered to give us an exposure of f8. Shooting at f8 @ 1/125 will give you a background that is -1 stop from your "Normal" exposure. Shooting at f8 @ 1/30 would give you +1 stop on the background.
Dropping the ambient is awesome for putting some color in the background, which can very easily get washed out on sunny days.
If all of that was confusing here is an easy way to get this all correct.
1. figure out your camera's flash sync speed (Usually 1/125 or 1/250 these days)
2. If 1/250, meter your scene on shutter priority, but meter for one to two stops below your sync speed. So 1/60th for two stops below. Lets say you get a reading of 1/60th at f11
3. power your flash so the exposure of your subject reads f11.
4. shoot manually at f11 @ 1/250 your subject will look normally exposed, and your background will be 2 stops lower then normal.
5. Just know that it helps to have a powerful flash, and a camera with a high sync speed.

I used the same technique on the photo below, although I also shot with 64T film (It adds a blue layer to compensate for the orange cast of tungsten lights) I also put a full sun gel on the strobe to counteract the blue layer of the film. The whole image looks blue, except for where the gelled strobe hits. The blue light that falls on the back of his neck is actually sunlight. Hope some of this helps. If it is still confusing search the internet for how to "Drop the Ambient" Cheers

Thann


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2680/4349362067_c8d7692e48_o.jpg

[Edited on 2/12/2010 by Thann]